CR Laurence Window Installation
Prior to getting into the meat of my van build, I wanted to add a window to the driver’s side of the van to let as much natural light as possible into the living area. I opted for the relatively simple to install CR Laurence window for the driver’s side forward opening, which opens for ventilation and matches the factory lines of the vehicle (note that the 144 and 170 WB windows are the same).
New CR Laurence T Vent window
Installation was easy enough, assuming you’re comfortable making non-fixable cuts in your van’s sheet metal (ok, very difficult to fix cuts). Only a jigsaw, drill, and some basic hand tools are necessary. It does help to have a garage to work in, as you’ll want to let things dry and cure for some time. Alternatively you could wait for a couple days when you’re confident it won’t rain, or just put a tarp over the van.
The window installs in the same opening that the factory window uses, so you can use the sheet metal seams as a guide rather than worrying about measuring or using a template. It’s still a good idea to hold up the trim piece that comes with the window to make sure you’re going to cut in the right spot though. Start by drilling small holes along the curves to transfer the pattern to the outside of the van. Assuming you’re using a jigsaw, it’s far easier to make the cuts from the outside. Once you have enough holes, trace the outline that you need to cut on the outside of the sheet metal.
Drill small holes to transfer the curves in the factory edges to the outside of the van
Next, tape off around where you’ll be cutting so the foot of your jigsaw doesn’t scratch the paint. It doesn’t hurt to go a little overboard here. Tape the feet of the jigsaw too. When you’re ready to cut, drill a larger hole inside the area you’ll be cutting out so you can get started. Make sure to use a quality metal blade, as fine as you can find. I used this Bosch 36 TPI blade and it worked great.
Pattern successfully transferred to the exterior of the van
When you’re ready, just follow the lines to cut out the opening. It helps to stop periodically and tape the already cut sections of the panel so it doesn’t shake excessively while you’re finishing your cut. This will also ensure the metal doesn’t fall out of place before you’re ready to carefully remove it. There was one tricky section where the contour of the sheet metal didn’t allow the feet of the jigsaw to sit against the area to be cut, but if you’re comfortable with a jigsaw you should be able to negotiate this area without too much trouble.
Scary cutting in progress
After this you should have a nice window-sized hole in your van! Clean up the sharp edges with a fine metal file and maybe some sandpaper, then test fit the new window prior to continuing. You might need to cut a little more out of some areas to get it to fit properly. I’ve installed two of these; one went in perfectly the first time and the other we had to cut quite a bit more out to get it to sit properly. The manufacturing quality on the second one seemed questionable, and you could see a few spots where the window frame was bowed where it shouldn’t have been. It ended up fine though. Just make sure you leave plenty of unmolested sheet metal for the window gasket to compress and seal on.
That looks about right
Next I primed the exposed metal edges to prevent rust. After that I used body seam filler in the gap between the internal and external sheet metal pieces. This may or may not be necessary, but it made me feel good to know there was added support in the gap between those pieces where the window compresses against the body. The seam filler needs to cure for at least a day, longer at cool temperatures.
The gap I filled with body seam filler
Finally, it’s time to install the window. Have some friends hold it in place and make sure it’s aligned how you want it. It gets secured by screwing on a trim piece from the inside that compresses against the body and pulls the window in. It’s very important to get all the screws in and torque them evenly. I went around the window tightening them a little at a time at least five times prior to getting the window sucked in all the way and feeling that it was good.
Success
Voila, that’s it! Make sure it opens smoothly, but other than that it’s ready for all the great views you’re going to see through it.
Thanks for sharing on such detail! What an inspiration!
If one was inclined, could window be installed in the back, similar to the front? I love having lots of windows! Of course some sort of privacy/blackout curtains would be required since it’s right beside the sleeping area.
Hi Phil! Yeah definitely. People put windows of all sizes into the back frequently. You can go with ones smaller than the factory opening so they are above the bed platform (if you go with a platform bed, that is).
Hi Steve, thanks for your post. We bought the same window for the passenger side sliding door and we’re having a bit of trouble with the final fit. The window fits in nicely and looks pretty good, but we can’t seem to get a good seal on the bottom rear corner. Can’t figure out why the window corner does not mate properly with the sheet metal. Any ideas? And did you use any additional sealer (like Sikaflex) under the window foam ring? Thanks!